Scotland Winter

A little time since my last blog entry. I have added a few photos from the 16-19 March, a great week in Scotland with blue skies and good ice on the Ben. During the week I took Amy up Two Step (V) and had her leading on the Web (II/III) on Aonach Mor and Good Friday (III) on the Ben.

Scotland Winter Conditions - West Coast - Cold and Windy

A dramatic change took place on Saturday night with the temperatures dropping, the freezing level was about 400m on Sunday.
Matt and I went up to Ben Nevis to see what was climbable on Sunday. Unfortunately the old snow hadn't fully frozen with a breakable crust making progress near impossible at times, sinking waist deep in snow. There was also a build up of new snow, which was quite substantial by the end of the day. We chose to do the SW ridge of the Douglas Boulder as vanishing gully had appeared to vanish. This provides a couple of interesting moves over 3-4 pitches. Upon returning to the ground the wind had increased significantly, with strong gusts blowing us around.
On Monday I worked the first day of a Jagged Globe course in the White Corries. We found good sections of neve where the fresh snow had been scoured. At times we even saw the sun!

Scotland Winter Conditions - West Coast - Wet

On Friday and Saturday I worked with Frank, developing his climbing technique to move from grade III to more IV and V. Day 1 we used the Ice Factor and Onich Slab, to work a range of ice and mixed techniques, that saw him relaxing on his axes by the end of day and competently using his feet.
Day 2 (Saturday) was not ideal conditions with rain at all levels and high wind, along with avalanche hazards on many slopes. We went up to do the main pitches on North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor which is safe and climbable in all conditions. We put into action all the techniques learnt on the previous day before abseiling back down. This was the point we heard a big 'boom' and witnessed a wet slush avalanche violently blasting down Great Gully. It was an impressive sigh from our safe vantage point and the debris is visable in the attached photo.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glen Coe

Snow up to head height!
Today we had fresh snow down to the road along with blue skies and light winds. In the drifts it was extremely deep, making progress hard. I took a group up Buachaille Etive Beag , following a wind scoured rise then a few nice rocky steps up to the North summit. We then descended to the col to play around on the old frozen snow that was exposed before returning to the bus.
Other teams were on the zig zags and trail breaking into the Lochan, being careful to avoid the many avalanche prone slopes.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glen Coe - Snow

After a mix of sleet and rain falling at all levels yesterday the snow has now returned with a vengeance.
Yesterday I was in the White Corries, at the start of Glen Coe, covering a range of skills with an 'introduction to winter' group. We found a bank of soft snow to slide on, but little in the way of hard snow for crampons. There was a new wet snow layer over the old soft snow pack. High up the winds were gusting 50 mph making walking difficult at times.
Today with blizzards forecast and high winds we opted for a low level skills day looking at navigation on Cow Hill. This hill is about 300m located behind Fort William and had a good covering of snow by the afternoon. The snow line has now decreased to near sea level with a fair amount of it accumulating outside the house.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Ben Nevis

I was working with some old friends over the weekend who wanted to sample the delights of winter climbing. They had been out in winter only once or twice before, so a full range of skills were covered over the two days.
On Saturday we headed to Cairngorms to enjoy the dry pleasant conditions. The snow had partly frozen overnight allowing for a range of boot and crampon skills to be covered before we made an ascent of the Runnel. The later start meant that most parties were up and out the way.
Today we went up to Ben Nevis, walking up to No. 2 Buttress at the back of the Ciste. We found that there had been a substantial amount of snow overnight above 800m. The freezing level seemed to be only 100 or 200m below the summit so much of this fresh snow was wet. On route there were some good ice pitches, that would take screws, so fun was had by all. A quick bum slide down red burn rounded things off nicely.

Scotland Winter Conditions - West Coast - Wet

Two days of wet and warm weather - but change is on its way.
Yesterday I was on Aonach Mor looking at a range of climbing skills from the Nid up towards the climbing area. Fresh snow had formed new cornices, but during the day the temperature level increased with sleety rain falling on the summit.
Today I climbed Dorsal arete via some thin streaks of softish snow, avoiding the loose blocks that are now showing. It rained for most of the day, but wasn't too windy - even on top.
It looks like one more of warm weather then cold and stormy.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glen Coe

Today I took Mike and Simon up into the Lochan and ascended the grade II climb NC gully. With freezing level below the current snow line we found some good firm snow on the route, though it is possible to kick through the initial frozen layer and find soft unfrozen snow below. Other teams climbed Dorsal and Boomerang.

A little fresh snow fell during the day forming small isolated patches of windslab on North to Easterly aspects. The turf wasn't frozen at any level.

A good day was had by all teaching about anchors, ropework and climbing techniques as we ascended to the top.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glen Coe

I went up into the Lost Valley today, with a Jagged Globe course, to teach leading on grade 1 terrain. We ascended the snow slopes at the back of the valley looking at a mixture of snow and rock anchors before descending from the col via snow bollards.

It was warm again at all levels, with the snow still being a wee bit soft and wet. The weather was kind though in that it was dry and calm, with fine views back to Glen Coe.

Scotland Winter Conditions - West Coast

I returned to Fort William today to find a lot less snow than a week ago. There is still more than enough to climb and do skills on, but you have to know where to go.
Today we were up on Aonach Mor covering a variety of winter skills around the Nid ridge. The snow is a bit wet, but there is still deep accumulations on easterly aspects. People were out climbing a variety of grade 2/3 routes on Aonach Mor, but a freeze is needed to before they fall down, and to keep the rock in place.

Skiing in the Alps

Last week was spent in Tignes skiing on good snow with mainly blue skies and a bit of fresh snow mid-week. Fortunatly this also meant missing the thaw that occured in Scotland, with warm weather and strong winds.

We did a variety of off-piste runs, with a few inparticular providing excellant virgin snow - though they did require up to 30min of uphill (felt like a breeze compared to walking in Scotland).

Unfortunalty I kept forgeting to take photos so I only have the one from the week!

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glen Coe

Another beautiful day, I don't know if I will be able to cope when normal weather resumes!
Today I covered a range of rope skills and snow belays on the slopes of Buachaille Etive Beag then walked along the ridge, which had formed into a nice snow crest in places, to the summit Stob Dubh.
There were pockets of soft snow, but we were mainly on good neve all day.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glen Coe

Today, while working for Jagged Globe, we ascended Broad Gully at the back of the Lochan. This is a snow grade 1 gully that provides a slightly steeper ascent than the main ridges. The was had neve below some slightly softer snow, with good tracks from people going up and down the route. The snow is nice and dry high up, it was nice to come down with dry gloves.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glen Coe

I was working for Jagged Globe today, taking an intro group up into the White Corries - the ski area at the start of Glen Coe.
It was a beautiful day with the freezing level at the base of the mountain, no wind and fine views. Ice is readily forming, there is good neve in places with softer fresh snow occasionally found in sheltered hollows. We covered a range of techniques from sliding to boot work, crampons to step cutting and bagging a Munro.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Cairngorm Snow

For the second day snow has stopped play. The ski road has been closed again, after further snow fell last night. It is now up to knee deep at 300m and I would expect substantially deeper at higher levels. Much of last nights snow fell under calm conditions, so has not been moved around. The hills looked noticeably white with only a few people accessing them on skis.
We plan to wade into the corries tomorrow, hopefully the forecast northerly winds will help move a scour the corries (a little). With the slopes so loaded obvious avalanche hazards abound.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Cairngorms

Today I was out in the Northern Corries looking at short roping and safeguarding on grade 1 terrain.
There were strong winds and a lot of snow being blown about, quickly accumulating on lee slopes and in hollows.

Below this there is good neve and ice seems to be readily forming, so I expect good climbing conditions if you can safely find the routes.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Cairngorms

I was in the Cairngorms today reviewing a variety of winter ML skills at Glenmore Lodge. The old snow had all frozen hard, with fresh snow being put down all day. Initially it was falling as graupel, which wouldn't help the avalanche conditions giving a loose 'ball bearing' layer for snow to slide on. Strong winds and more snow tomorrow will make for further challenging conditions.

Scotland Winter Conditions - West Coast

Upon returning to Scotland I discovered that the thaw during the second half of last week has stripped a lot of snow, considering how much there was. All is not lost though as cold weather today has frozen the remaining snow nicely creating good gully climbing conditions and ice rapidly forming as low as 500m.
Today I was working for Alan Kimber and West Coast Guides. I took Mark and Aaron up onto Aonach Mor and looked at a variety of skills around the Nid ridge including sliding, kicking steps, crampons, snow belays and climbing ice and mixed routes. Blue skies all day and nice conditions once the strong wind died down in the afternoon.

Wales Winter Conditions - Cwm Idwal

I was working for Ogwen Cottage today, facilitating a GCSE mountain walking module. In the afternoon we ventured up into Cwm Idwal where there was a clear view of the snow from about 500m upwards. There also appeared to be a little avalanche debris at the back of Cwm Cneifion. No ice had formed but with the fluctuation in temperatures I guess the easier gullies will be forming.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Avalanches & Ben Lawers

Back on Friday I went out with Blair as he prepared the forecast for the SAIS (Scottish Avalanche Info Service). We dug a pit up on Aonach Mor and assessed the snow as we descended down to the base of the Nid. It was interesting to see the forecasting process and learn more about the complexities of snow.
On Saturday I went out to do some skills with my (slightly sick) partner Sarah along with Dave and Joe. We ventured onto the slopes of Ben Lawers where we found snow from around 400m, though much of it soft.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Cairngorms

Back into Sneachda today to avoid the rain/snow/wind in the West. I went up to climb with Lee (now driving a fiesta courtesy car) deciding to give Salvation (V, 7) a try. After Lee did a great job of pulling through steep overlap, on pitch 2, he discovered thin climbing and no protection and understandably decided to give it a miss. I decided I didn't want to face the same predicament either and so we went up Patey's Route instead. This route is given IV, 5 with icy conditions, but with no ice the steeper sections were a little more entertaining. We abseiled off after the hard climbing to avoid the still unstable snow slopes that are about.
The turf is now well frozen but the crags are hidden under soft snow and significant windslab is forming (it didn't quite rain at all levels last night).

Scotland Winter Conditions - Cairngorms

After playing van skating (and bumper cars with a wall) on the drive over, from Fort William to Aviemore, I eventually arrived at the Cairngorm ski car park. With Lee looking after his broken van I teamed up with Rocio and Dave and climbed Belhaven (V, 6) - which has a good 50m top pitch of sustained interest.
There wasn't as much snow as the west, and what we discovered was much more compact making for an easy approach. All the turf was well frozen, though most cracks were hidden beneath soft snow. It is due to warm a little overnight with freezing levels drop by mid-morning, which will only help to consolidate the snowpack.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glen Coe

Today I battled up to the Lochan with Kenny and Lee, wading through knee deep snow at times. We eventually made it to the foot of Central Buttress to climb Central Grooves. This is a classic VII, 7 route but hard especially with the snowy, icy conditions (difficult to find gear and axe placements). Lee lead the first pitch, Kenny the second and then we decided that was enough for one day, otherwise we wouldn't finish until after dark. Both pitches were steep and pumpy.
On the way down the snow was a lot wetter and it felt that the freezing level had risen to 800/900m. Tomorrow it is set to drop to 600m with a frost overnight - hopefully helping to consolidate the existing soft snow.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Ben Nevis

Yesterday I went up the North West Face Route on the Douglas Boulder, Ben Nevis with Ian. We chose this route due to ease of access, avoiding any avalanche prone slopes as it was category 4. By the time we reached the top of 'the boulder' it was close to 300m of climbing, we some hard moves on the main 50m chimney pitch - mainly due to little ice, soft snow and unhelpful rock.
On the descent we decided to abseil down the grade 1 gully as it was loaded with a lot of snow.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Snow!

Unfortunately I couldn't get out today as I had a meeting, though it would of been hard going as a lot of snow fell last night - almost down to Fort William. The Nevis ski range was open today and Tom and Julie reported lots of powder drifts in between older frozen snow. A healthy wind blew all day creating windslab and a category 4 has been issued, so careful route choice is vital.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Glencoe

Today I went up into the Lochan with Lee, just up from Wales. The overnight precipitation (falling as snow high up) fortunately stopped as we arrived in the car park, producing a mainly calm day.
We jumped on Tilt (VI, 7), which has a lot of good climbing on. Snow had plastered the whole crag and the turf on the top half of the route was frozen. Unfortunately I discovered it wasn't quite so well frozen lower down as my axes unexpectedly ripped and I found myself 15ft lower.
We were just finishing the last pitch when the storm arrived firing snow pellets into our faces and blowing us around at will. By the time we made it back to the car park we were drenched through and struggling against the wind even in the car park.
With all the snow falling, loading the slopes, all the gullies were releasing lots of slough avalanches. I also heard of avalanches releasing on Aonach Mor and the Ben, so keep clear of them gullies.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Ben Nevis

I went up to Ben Nevis today to shadow Mike from Abacus Mountaineering. We climbed up on No. 3 Gully Buttress, finding good neve in places and climable ice. In the afternoon the wind and spindrift increased making for an unpleasant but exhilarating exit onto the plateau.
A frozen crust had formed over the the wet snow from yesterday, stabilising the pack. However with the fresh snow being blown onto Northerly aspects, and more being forecast, the SAIS have forecast considerable avalanche risk at category 3.

Scotland River Levels - Roy Gorge

With a turn in the weather, to wet and wild, I took the opportunity to go paddling. We kayaked the Roy Gorge, a classic grade 3/4 section, at medium to high levels. It was the first time I had been on the river since the grade 5, headbanger, had disappeared. There used to be a large section of cliff overhanging above the water, requiring the paddler to duck to avoid hitting their head.
Sorry about the quality of pictures they all turned out to be a little hazy today.

Scotland Winter Conditions - Caving in the Mountains

Today Paul and I made the steep 2 hour walk into Church Door Buttress, Glencoe. We climbed the interesting Crypt route. It takes a few excursions into the cliff itself over the first 3 pitches, requiring the ability to crawl through tight squeezes and wriggle up chimneys. The last two pitches, above an impressive arch, follow Raeburns Chimney - originally climbed in socks to loud cheers when completed back in the day.
The ground was much more frozen today after a slight frost, with the turf providing much better placements than yesterday. On the descent windslab had formed on Northerly aspects but with good neve below.
Unfortunately with the wet and warm weather tomorrow much of the fresh snow, which had dropped to 500m by the evening, may dissappear. Winter Mountaineering Courses

Scotland Winter Conditions - Winter Reforms

Yesterday I went with Alan Kimber and clients up No. 3 gully and down No. 4 on the Ben. The crags were wet but the freezing level was slowly dropping throughout the day. A steady wet snow fell through most of the day.
Today Kath and I went up to the Lochan in Glencoe to climb Scabbard Chimney (V, 6). We discovered that the wet snow had frozen but so had the wet crags, choking the cracks with ice and hampering the placement of protection. As we left it started to snow down to 600m.
Paul, Tom and Julie (with whom I'm living with outside Fort William for the season) climbed Green Gully on the Ben. Apparently it was a bit like slush puppy until the last 50 to 100m. A good freeze tonight and cold temperatures will sort that out.

Welsh Winter - Idwal Ice

I took my Dad and partner Sarah up into Cwm Idwal today to sample the ice and swing some tools. We ventured over to variety of frozen rivers between Devils Kitchen and Y Garn, which provided a mixture of pitches from grade II to a couple of short pitches at III/IV. Fun was had by all!
Unfortunatly rivers had started to form down the ice falls by the afternoon, and with warmer temperatures tomorrow I fear everything is going to be a little slushy. Not all is bad though as Scotland looks like it will get a good dump of snow tomorrow and falling temperatures on Monday, so if your interested in winter mountaineering up North email me - info@sea2summit.net
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Welsh Winter - New Route on Clogwyn Ddu

Mark on the crux pitch of The Rutt VI-7, new route on Clogwyn Ddu

Another cold day meant another day walking up to Cwm Cneifion to make the most of the conditions. I was climbing with Mark again, sharing pitches up the (now classic) El Mancho VII 7 - which proved to be worth the hype.
In the afternoon we added two pitches above Clogwyn Central, keeping to the arete instead of returning to the gully. My pitch went at about grade 5 and another of 7. The final hard pitch was thin for both feet and axes but Mark pulled it off, somehow.

Welsh Winter - 2nd FA of Blenderhead. VII 8

Mark on the second free ascent of Blenderhead VII 8
Mark and I went up to Clogwyn Ddu today to sample its mixed delights. There are a mixture of routes over the buttress all of which can be viewed here: http://welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com/page/Cwm+Cneifion+%26+Clogwyn+Du
Mark cranked hard to make a 2nd free ascent of Blenderhead. The crux involved torquing and laybacking up a steep groove, which was strenuous even as a second.
The turf is still well frozen, even though it felt a little warmer today. Hopefully more action tomorrow.
Winter Mountaineering Courses

Welsh Winter - New Routes on Glyder Fach

Today I went up to the North Face of Glyder Fach with Baggy. Back in November Baggy had spotted some new route potential (along with many other lines he has earmarked) and with the ground well frozen at all levels the turfy/mixed routes proved to be in good condition.
We climbed 2 new routes at about IV, 5 and a winter ascent of Square Chimney Buttress at V, 5 adding a new start. All were good climbs, well worth repeating.
On the walk-in we noticed that the ice was fattening up at the back of Idwal with more than a couple of parties enjoying the numerous routes that are in condition.

New Year in Scotland

I have just returned from a fun New Year in the far North, staying in the hamlet of Oldshoremore near Cape Wrath. The stable weather provided 7 days of blue skies and light winds, though the temperature rarely rose above 2 celcius.

There was little in the way of winter this far North, except for heavy frosts in the Glens. There was however plenty of rock climbing with a variety of single pitch crags on gneiss and sandstone, including the sea cliffs of Sheigra. These were 30m in length, steep but with jugs galore (also the name of a 3 star HVS route). The stack of Am Bauchile was close by, just an 1hr 15 min walk-in. Climbing the 50m VS was the easy bit of the day.

For water-lovers North Scotland recieves exceptional surf. We spent 3 days on the North coast at a variety of breaks on clean 4-6ft surf. My newly repaired surf kayak was happy to show off its speed, I'm sure the others were jealous in their slower plastic boats!

Rock Climbing Holidays

White Water Courses

Craig y Forwyn - open

It has been closed for the last 20 years , that is until now after the BMC negotiated access to once popular limestone venue. There are a range of routes from VDiff upwards, though many of the routes need a good clean after years of neglect. All the routes are trad and are between 10 to 40m in height.
Myself and Adam went up the excellent Mojo and Scalar, the latter has been cleaned but still needs time to wash away some dirt. Adam accidentally helped the cleaning process pulling away a sizeable block from the route!
See http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/forwyn_lr.pdf for a guide to the crag. Please take careful note of new parking areas and the approach. To keep access please respect the area and be considerate to others living in the area.

River Levels North Wales

Quick blast down the Seiont today which was at a medium to low level. I was in a kayak with Pete Firth and Adam Harmer in open boats. Other rivers had dropped off from last nights rain but more is due on Friday afternoon.
Kayaking Courses Wales
Outdoor Pursuit Courses

White Water in Scotland

It may have been a little cold, but good fun was had on the Spean Gorge then the next day the Orchy on a good medium level after a night of rain.
White Water Kayaking Courses

Early Winter Conditions in Scotland

November and December have had below average temperatures - good for winter climbers in Scotland and Wales. The snow has had chance to go through a few freeze thaw cycles and is starting to develop into good neve.
Photos of Flutted Buttress Direct, Northern Corries, Rannoch Moor and North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Moor
Winter Mountaineering Courses

Alpine White Water

Sorry about the lack of blogs, but we have been busy running a variety of rock climbing, white water and sea kayaking courses over the last couple of months. There has been some good weather too, allowing for all of the mountain crags to dry.

I'm currently kayaking in Alps working on a variety of courses. The levels are starting to return to normal after unseasonal weather over the last few weeks.

Photo courtesy of Adam Harmer