Inclination, Glen Coe

Today I went into the Lochan with Kenny and Guy. We took an early start to avoid the afternoon weather that was due to come in.

Upon arrival we found an inviting white and frozen crag, with clear views and no wind. We were all keen to climb Inclination which takes a counter line to Tilt.

The climbed proved to be fun and interesting, with positive placements and good gear. The neve is good on the ledges and turf well frozen. The cracks were even clear for easy placements.

By the afternoon it was snowing heavily, with a fair amount accumulating. I expect the approaches to be a little hard going tomorrow.

Other teams were on Twisting Grooves and Gully, SC and NC.

The photos are by Guy Steven

No. 4 Gully, Ben Nevis

Yesterday, between myself and Dave, we took a Jagged Globe team of 6 clients up No. 4 Gully on the Ben.

A dryish day, there had been a little bit of damp snow overnight, but the forecasted blizzards didn't arrive until the evening. The old snow had frozen up making walking easy, with just a little fresh snow enabling steps to be kicked. Teams were out on Point Five, Green, Ledge Route and North Gully, though there was a bit of spindrift about making climbing difficult in places.

No views from the plateau today, but a nice slide down Red Burn.

Lochan, Glen Coe

The last two days I have been up to the Lochan in Glen Coe with Jagged Globe. Both times I was looking at snow anchors, though with different clients.

Yesterday we made an ascent of Broad Gully, but the same snow was very soft this morning with a little bit of overnight debris evident. So today we used the East-facing walls on the West side of the corrie, which provided us with much harder snow. Upon completion of our our bucket digging roped ascent we summited then descended the NE ridge - a grand excursion!

Now need to go to bed a little earlier now to cope with the 0745 meetings.

White Corries

Today I was working for Jagged Globe on the first day of an Introduction to Winter Mountaineering. We went to the Glen Coe ski area which provides quick access to snow and ice.

On the mountain a range of neve, windslab and ice was found providing good conditions to go through a range of axe, crampon and boot skills. The munro was also bagged on a generally pleasant and dry day.

We found the snow to be very stable over most of the mountain, with only the occasional small pocket of windslab.

Other teams reported good neve on the cliffs in the Lochan. With a sudden rise in temperature followed by some cold temperatures things can only improve further.

Ben Nevis, Compression Crack

A mainly sunny and calm day on the Ben today. Frosty this morning creating the main danger of the day - black ice on the drive over. The snow has started to harden with many slopes now turning into neve.

We picked a line up one of the cascades below Carn Derag this morning. There are a variety of possibilities from grade 3 to 5, all in good shape.

Next we wandered over to the obvious ice on Compression Crack which was fat. The higher icy chimney also provided some great moves, though not so easy when an isolated spin drift avalanche is pouring onto your head!

We stayed hoped for the upper easy slopes as they were a bit loaded in isolated sections with various layers within the pack.

Shelf Route, Buachaille Etive Mor

A high avalanche warning last night made think hard about possible venues for today. It was forecast to snow most of the evening with strong Southerly winds creating windslab. On waking up though I noticed the temperatures had been warm with freezing levels above the summits, so most of precipitation had been rain or wet snow higher up.

We opted for Shelf route which proved to be a fun mixed route with some nice positions, especially topping out on Crowberry Tower. There was also a 35m ice pitch on the way up to Crowberry basin to start things off, at around grade III.

The snow felt stable, and beginning to re-freeze on the upper slopes. We were also able to descend into the corrie providing a quick descent.

The turf is still frozen and with the lower temperatures over the next couple of days the snow will readily freeze. There is a good cover above 700/800m with the gullys well filled.

Scotland Conditions Shaping Up Nicely

Since making the drive North last Friday I have been on the hill every day. Last weekend I was working for Nick at Alpha with Glen and Rob. This was an intro winter course, but as they had been out trying there crampons out we decided to do Dorsal Arete on the second day - a fine grade II climb in Glen Coe.

I then met up with friends Kath, Paul and Mat on Monday. We initially headed to do Cairngorms to find much snowier conditions. Up on Fiacaill Buttress we soon discovered its white appearance wasn't soft snow but well frozen snow ice. This allowed us to climb anywhere, but a lot of time is needed to dig out the cracks for protection. An ascent of the Couloir was chosen then a top rope session of Belhaven, The Seam and Short Circuit (all very different to last time I climbed them).

We were all keen to climb in NW on Tuesday and Wednesday, somewhere I have been climbing only a handful of times. The first day we made the long but steady walk into Beinn Eighe and the imposing Triple Buttress. Last time I was there I made an ascent of the Central Buttress seconding the memorable crux. This time it looked a little blacker than hoped. Mat and I climbed East buttress that had good snow and neve on the ledges, though the steeper bits were dry and so we used just 1 axe to ascend. A great route though.

On Wednesday, after much debate, we decided to stay in the NW and drive to Glen Carron to look at Sgorr Ruadh. After a little confusion navigating around a deer fence and a 2 hour walk we looked up, to find, nothing that resembled winter! To save the day we went up a grade I gully on hard neve, finding a snowy branch higher up (possibly grade III) before descending another gully on the far side of the top plateau. Not quite as hoped but not a completely wasted day.

So Thursday I returned to the West and was working with Adele and Jagged Globe. The clients, Paul and Bob, had already done a few routes and were keen for ice so the West Face of Aonach Dubh was chosen. We went up the long and varied number 3 gully - which was new to myself, Adele and Al Halewood who was also there working. Some good initial grade III ice pitches lead to a snowy gully and bits of easier ice higher up. Just when you I though it was all over though the climbing continued over rock steps and snowy flanks before eventualy topping out by the Lochan descent. Fun journey.

That is the last 6 days in a nutshell. Need to now get a new camera to replace my broken one so I can display some more pictures.

Black Cleft and Central Ice Fall Direct

It may now be all change, but it certainly has been a great month for winter climbing. This week I ascended Central Ice Fall Direct (VI) with Baggy which is a 3 pitch pure ice climb that probably hasn't been in since the mid 90's. Yesterday I was on Cloggy with Dave climbing Black Cleft (VII, 7) again a route that hasn't been formed for years. Both classics and great fun to climb.

I'm now heading up to start work in Scotland, though after climbing so much recently it feels more like the end of the season rather than the start!

Kayaking and Ice

On Saturday I ran a 3 star training course on the Menai Straits. It was surprisingly pleasant in the sun, even though the temperatures were low. I was out with Leo and Gary, going through a range of strokes and playing in the various currents created in the Swellies.

The plan was to go to Llangollen today, but over the weekend the river has started to freeze over -removing eddies! We decided conditions therefore weren't ideal and postponed the assessment until a latter date.

Instead I went out to Cromlech Ice Falls in the afternoon, which are climbable in places, with some friends. No one was about, so it was nice to enjoy some roadside ice in the peace and quiet.

Blue Skies over the Carneddau

Busy week with 6 new routes this week. All in the Carneddau and around grade V on mixed ground. Today I was with Si Lake and Dave whilst the other day I skied in with Baggy.

There were certainly some fun pitches amongst them, I just need to name a few and write them up now. There are a few photos below from today.

Cwm Idwal Ice

Today I took my Dad and Norman up to play on the ice at the back of Cwm Idwal. There are a variety of routes providing good ice from II to VII with a short walk-in. Unfortunatly everyone else loves the ice too, and even mid-week it was packed.

We did some skills, sliding and talking about snow on the way in before duckin and diving to find a variety of ice pitches to play on. This included taking some harder lines up in Devils Kitchen itself, exploring the dark recesses of the cleft.

A beautiful day with no wind and pleasant winter temperatures.

New Routes and Enough Snow to Ski

My legs are feeling the burn after a couple of exciting days in the winter wonderland that is North Wales (along with the rest of the UK).

On Monday I did two new routes with Dave up in the Carneddau, both offering mixed climbing around grade V making good use of the frozen turf. With blue skies and distant views you couldn't ask for much more.

Yesterday I went for a ski tour from my house, after Baggy was engaged looking after his kids due to the local school closures. It was definitely a first being able to ski back to my door.

Today I got out climbing again, with a further 2 new routes. Both were in the Carneddau again providing 3 -4 pitches of mixed fun. The second was unexpectedly steep, possibly around VI-7, providing just enough gear. A ski back down capped the day off nicely.

The Cold Weather Still Prevails

I think my girlfriend is tired of me telling her how lucky she has been with the weather. Ice is forming nicely at all levels with the low temperatures looking set to continue.

Yestetday I took Tom up Deep Cut Chimney on Stob Coire Nam Beith. There was some good ice in the initial chimney and the recent wind had scoured the slopes to reveal old neve higher up.

I also went up to Ceitilin Slabs down Glen Etive on Thursday, for somewhere different. Unfortunately the 'copious amounts of ice' as described in the guide book wasn't present but we did climb a gully not described. This provided small interesting steps of grade III / IV.

Udlaidh Ice, Bridge of Orchy

Today I went to find ice with my girlfriend Sarah. There is a lot of soft snow around in the Highlands at the moment, so a popular venue helps cut approach times with well trodden tracks. Udlaidh was certainly popular today, though the ice wasn't as fat as I had expected. Quartzvein scoop was seeing lots of accents but anything harder was a little fragile and thin. We played around on Land of Make Believe. With the sun out it was always going to be a good day.

Unfortunately I left the camera battery charging today, at least it is ready for tomorrow.

Back to Wales - Polar Bear (VI,6), Black Ladders

Yesterday I was climbing under blue skies on the Black Ladders. I was grateful not to miss out on such a glorious day, after a last minute change of climbing partners late at night, my plans of climbing were then nearly thwarted when Chris discovered he had no crampons while racking up.

Fortunately well known activist Chris Parkin turned up with Greg Cain and allowed me to join them as a 3. We jumped on Polar Bear which offers fine mixed climbing, making good use of the frozen turf. Each pitch has interesting climbing, with nothing too desperate.

We finished a little later than expected so I had a little jog down so I wasn't too late for a meal with friends and family back on the Wirral.

It looks like it is staying cold into the New Year, which I will be spending up in Scotland. I'm hoping for more blue skies and good climbing.

For more photos: Sea 2 Summit Flickr

Lochan, Glen Coe

The final day of the pre-Christmas hit was up in Stob Coire nan Lochan on Friday. We climbed Spectre (V,6) which runs parallel to the popular Scabbard Chimney.

A cold day, ice was forming at all levels on the walk in with flurries of snow during the day.

We managed to return to the van for 1430 to make the drive back to Wales, where there is currently fresh snow in the hills.

Flickr Photos

Ben Nevis

A windy and snowy start turned into a beautiful and sunny afternoon. The freezing level had dropped considerably and the snow line was well below the CIC hut.

We had aspirations for Observatory Ridge, but with three people ahead of us, and it looking a little lean on snow, we decided against it. Unfortunatly most lines in Observatory Gully require ice and this was lacking, even high up on Indicator Wall. I know Smith's was done last week but it must of been quite scary! We opted for Chimney Groove (IV,6) which took us up onto Tower Ridge and then to the top.

The snow is now well frozen, with just isolated pockets of slabby new snow.

For more photos of Ben Nevis see Sea 2 Summit Flickr site

West Coast Conditions

After the long drive up from Wales on Monday night, Simon and I stopped over at the Bridge of Orchy. We took the relatively short walk up to Beinn An Dothaidh. The turf was frozen at all levels - ideal for the mixed routes. Menage a Trois (V,6) and The Upper Circle (III) both proved to be good fun.

Today I was up on the Ben, which was very wintry with good snow above 900m and ice forming on the higher crags. We climbed Thompson's Route (IV) and Central Right-Hand (IV) both of which had first time placements in the ice. We were also honoured to be invited in to the (new looking) CIC hut for a cuppa tea on the way down.

Back to the Ben tomorrow for some more action.

River Tryweryn with King Edwards Sch Brimingham

I returned to Wales over the weekend to run a white water course for King Edwards School. We went on the Lower Tryweryn, which provides grade 2/3 rapids all the way to Bala.

All the rivers around Snowdonia have now dropped to an unrunnable low level with the recent dry weather.

Back up to Scotland tonight to make the most of the cold snap.

More Blue Skies in the Caringorms

On Friday we went up to Fiachile Buttress in the Cairngorms climbing Short Circuit and The Seam - both fun mixed routes. Again the weather was kind and the snow well frozen.

Beautiful conditions in Scotland

I have been climbing on the Northern Corries for the last two days with a friend Ian.

Yesterday we went up to the Mess of Potage climbing Honey Pot and Hidden Chimney. Today on Western Route on No. 4 Buttress. All provide good mixed pitches with Western Route being quite steep at times.

Yesterday the snow was damp and thawing slightly. Today there was clear and frosty overnight, freezing the substantial snow pack hard. unfortunately though the cracks are also iced up making protection difficult to place.

Dwyfor and Seiont Rivers

The snow may of been stripped from the mountains, but the rivers rose rapidly this morning with mild temperatures an heavy rain. Myself, Matt, Rich, James and Sally enjoyed the Dwyfor at high levels this morning and the Seiont all the way to the sea late this afternoon. More rain tonight should keep the rivers at a good level.

Welsh Winter Conditions - Fynnon Lloer

Today I went up to Fynnon Lloer in the Carneddau with James and Phil.
We found plenty of old snow in the gullies that was in the process of freezing, especially above 800 metres. It still needs a bit longer though to be fully frozen as it wasn't too hard to break through the crust. During the day a fair amount of new snow fell, mainly as graupel. This was getting blown around, collecting in gullies and lee slopes.
We climbed some small mixed pitches on rock, looking at various techniques, then dropped back down to climb Y Gully Left-hand.

Snow in North Wales

Yesterday I went up to Trinity Face on Snowdon with James Bruton. It has been cold since the weekend and a fair amount of snow has fallen above 600m.

We went to have a look at Snowdrop but found a breakable crust with soft snow or unfrozen turf below. Part way up the crux pitch we decided to retreat becasue of the conditions. Instead we moved around on some broken ground and looked at strength of anchors in the given snowpack.

The day before I paddled down the Croesor, with just enough water. This has some fun grade V drops on it. We also spent a bit of time removing a tree from the first IV+ drop. One bit remains but hopefully in its new location it should have a better chance of floating further downstream in high water. The recent floods have certainly deposited a lot of debris in the rivers.

River Leading & Canoe Polo

On Saturday I played in the Northern Div 4 League for Friends of Allonby Canoe Club. As a team we are still learning, managing to win a game and personally I scored 2 goals in our last match. I just need to work out what to do with the ball once I win it.

Today I was with Tom going through leading on rivers for the BCU 4 star leaders award. We paddled down the Afon Aled and Elwy on good medium/high levels. Both rivers are continuous grade II with a few sections around III. There are a few wires and a low bridge to negotiate on the Aled. On the Elwy there is one large and obvious weir that needs portaging.

Kayak Rolling Course

Rolling Course Claire
Originally uploaded by sea2summit_net

Today I ran a one day rolling course for Claire and John. Most of the day was spent in the pool refining their rolls. Late afternoon we kayaked down to Jim's Bridge putting the skills into practice.

The Llugwy was at good high level today.

River Levels - North Wales

The rivers were still up over the weekend, with most such as the Llugwy being high without flooding.

Last Friday I descended the Ogwen in big water, you couldn't get under the bridge at the bottom of Ogwen Bank. It certainly left an impression on me.

I was also fortunate to run the Artro, a new river to me. This is a fun and continuous blast at III+ (one tree down on the initial section). The Dwyfor was also running at a good level providing continuous waves and holes to negotiate, with no major hazards.

White Water, day after day

The rain continues to fall and the rivers have been up each day. Over the weekend I ran a navigation course, Monday a sea kayak course with Sebastian in some strong winds and today on the Lledr with Simon and Dave.

More rain due tonight so I expect some big levels tomorrow.

Intermediate White Water 07/11/09

2 day course looking to develop the necessary skills for grade IV water.

Day 1: Cobdens Falls (IV) and Upper Conwy (III) with Bryn Bras Falls (IV).

Day 2: River Ogwen from Ogwen Caravan Park to the A5 bridge (IV) and Lower Llugwy (IV)

All photos are by Adrian Trendall of Cobden's Falls see http://deadlylightshade.com

White Water Courses with Sea2Summit

Autumn Update

A busy summer has meant a lack of blogging. We have been running a full range of kayaking and climbing courses and personally I have managed to get away for some climbing in Cornwall and kayaking in Slovenia and India.

At the moment we have been blessed with lots of rain allowing us a full choice of venues on all the white water courses. There has also been a little snow falling in Scotland over the last few days, a reminder that winter will soon return.

Castell Helen, Gogarth

The rain cleared by the afternoon to provide dry weather and blue skies over Anglesey.
The 5 day climbing course went to Holyhead mountain to climb a range of routes and look at tying to anchors and belaying. Meanwhile Dan led Amanda up various pitches on Miletone Buttress in Ogwen valley. I took some friends onto Castell Helen, to sample the delights of sea cliff climbing.

Lead Climbing Course Wales

Return to Sunny Rock Climbing

The end of last week I returned to work in North Wales, running a sea level traversing and coasteering day for a group of friends and kayaking at Trearddur Bay for a novice group.

With it being the first week of school holidays, I then went on a small trip to the Gower with my girlfriend Sarah, who is a teacher in Abergele. We managed to climb on the sunny days and find good surf on the wet days.

Rock Climbing Courses in North Wales

Scotland Winter Conditions - Cairngorms & Ben Nevis

Back up to Scotland for a short hit with my Dad.

Yesterday, after a few skills, I took him up the Haston Line and Hidden Chimney in the Cairngorms. Dry weather but warm, the crag slowly turned from white to black during the day.

Today we ascended the NE buttress on the Ben. Again it was dry with light winds, though a little warm. There is still a lot of ice around, and the route was very climbable although a little damp.

North Wales Kayaking

During last week I ran a variety of kayaking courses. Over the weekend, with James from adventure elements, a Dof E sea kayaking training course for 12 young people. Then during the week a sea and white water introduction. I have added a few photos of both courses.