Tuesday 8 January 2008

Winter Climbing on Beinn Eighe


Yesterday I went out with Nick (from Alpha Mountaineering) to Beinn Eighe in the Northwest of Scotland. A 2.5 hour walk-in gets you to triple buttress where the main climbing is located. We chose a mixed route (mixture of iced cracks, frozen turf, and snow), making the most of the frozen conditions. The snow was hard under foot, water ice was 'dripping' down the rock, and the vegetation was solid. These good conditions coupled with clear skies, for most of the day, and light winds made it a day to remember.

We climbed Pigott's route, a classic up central buttress, that goes at VI 7 winter grade. The crux involves struggling up a smooth, steep chimney right near the top of the 260m route.

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