Friday, 5 March 2010

Beinn Udlaidh, Doctors Dilemma

A unknown substance appeared to be falling from the sky this morning in Fort William, some call it rain but it hasn't been seen in these parts for a long time. To avoid it I headed south to Udlaidh, which proved to be dry and calm - except for the dripping ice.

A few other teams had similar ideas but we managed to slot in on Doctors Dilemma, though climbing a completely different variant to Monday, at the same grade of IV, 4. It was a bit warmer today with soft ice providing easy placements and wet gloves.

One team dared to go onto the East sector. We all drew breath as they surmounted the top snow slopes, amongst the sizeable drooping cornices. Maybe they knew something we didn't, but I'm glad we didn't chance it.

Today I was working with Patrick and Johnny for Abacus Mountaineering.


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