Buachaille Etive Mor, Lagangarbh Buttress

A short day today as Lou couldn't get out until 8am and we had to be down by 2.30. I decided to head towards the Buachaille, as it is a short walk-in. The snow level had risen more than I expected, it was certainly snowier on Thursday.

From below Lagangarbh Butress still appeared white so we headed for the chimney route, up steep and awkward heather, rock and ice steps. Short approach but not easy. Closer inspection showed that route wasn't very wintery, but the nearby Staircase Butress was. A pitch of ice led up to the buttress where we picked a line of around grade IV up on the left-hand side, with one very short and steep crux section (6). The turf was well frozen and the crag covered in a crusty snow.

To approach the guide book says to keep right of the watercourse, but it appears easier if you keep well left until high up or step over the watercourse above the obvious steepening (10m drop) to the left side and continue upwards.

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