Wednesday, 10 February 2010

Cuneiform Buttress, Buachaille

I walked into the Buachaille today with Dave. I wanted to have a closer look at Raven's Gully.

It looked promising at first as we approached on hard neve, passing various ice formations. Upon soloing up to the first main pitch though no ice could be seen running down from the first main chockstone. A quick change of plan and we went onto Cuneiform Buttress on the right climbing The Long Chimney via a bit of a variant (vague guide book description led to making our own line up). The chimney was a struggle and the other sections akward, with soft snow hiding blank rock slab. Still we got there in the end to see a beautiful sunset on our descent.

Two other climbers also followed us to Raven's Gully and appeared to climb the route. The first problem they overcame gymnastically, doing the splits between the walls. I don't know if conditions improved higher up.


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